Saturday, April 22, 2017


A year ago, we tried to make our way to Anegada, the northernmost island of the BVIs, but were blocked by a week without wind... and a lack of functioning engine This time, once again,  we waited days for enough wind. While we waited, we motored about and snorkeled new spots: the Seal Dogs (wonderful forests of staghorn coral), the reef at the north end of Eustacia Sound (found piles of conch shells dumped by some fisherman).... and The Invisibles (a beautiful submerged group of enormous boulders with schools of fish a mile east of Richard Branson's place). We also used our engine to pull up to the dock at Leverick Bay to conveniently purchase ice: I admit there are times an engine is nice.

Finally, the wind picked up... and the forecast called for much stronger winds in later days. We caught the first day of wind to sweep across the ocean
and into the shoals around the island. We used the engine for the last mile, making our way through the traffic of yachts and ferries, and snagged a mooring in what seemed like a crowded parking lot.
Barry, a local, motored over and chatted with us a bit and told us his uncle would be out to get the mooring fee: always fun to meet new friendly people!

With strong winds and a new island to explore, we went ashore
and rented a car. As a gardener, I have bought manure, but have never before rented something that could be called a "piece of manure". A friend finds movies that are so bad that they are actually good and this car was similar. I believe broken engine mounts created the interesting engine clunks and misaligned the transmission selector. One could lower the driver's window, but raising it took two people and five minutes. Only the driver could control the passenger window. Cracking noises from near the front wheels (ball joints?) made one wonder if the wheels would remain attached. And so much more....
And it was purple... and the engine hurt my ears....

Anegada itself is BORING! All scrub, blocking out any view of the shallow salt ponds
and the ocean.

Feral cows, cats, chickens, and goats stand in the road
(and left footprints while concrete pavement was being poured)

And the stores... I thought the stores on St John were limited, but the ones here measure 20' square and have next to nothing in them... but one we entered had cleats (for a boat) and cheap ice cream and diapers. I've never seen an island with less available to do, although the seaside restaurants and bars look like possible way to spend time and money), if one likes that sort of thing, and one could spend days snorkeling (with less wind!) and reading. We look forward to coming next time when the winds are lower (gusting 25 or 30 knots now) and perhaps anchoring in various places along the extensive barrier reef (the third largest in the world, according to one person) and exploring. Perhaps when the winds are in the 5kt to 15kt range, acceptable for both sailing and snorkelling...

We really did love this thatched roof over a bar on the north side of the island. Mostly made of rope and un-milled wood and palm fronds and a very few nails or screws. Beautiful and functional...


  1. You used the motor? Had to read that twice to be sure I got it right!

    1. Oh, yes!

      Funny story to do with that: Cynthia and I initially sailed to the boat yard to purchase some large items and, as we entered the channel, dropped sails and turned the key... the engine cranked, but did not start. After a few minutes of mounting concern as we drifted into shallow water, we raised the jib and limped out to a deeper anchorage to figure it out.

      Understandably aggravated ("You PROMISED that it was working!"), Cynthia eventually asked, "Have you EVER put fuel into this boat?"

      "Um, no."

      So we poured in a few gallons of diesel and it started right up.

      These things sip so little fuel it is easy to forget.

  2. Now that was a truly heart warming adventure that you brilliantly recounted with your narrative and photos. As always, best wishes on your adventures.

  3. Nice to hear from you again - its been awhile. Glad you both are having fun in your adventures together. :)

    1. Nice to hear from you, too. Perhaps our paths will cross and we can catch up sometime...

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  5. It's always important to venture to the uttermost spots. Congratulations. Love your description of the kooky car and your other story about the engine not running when there's no gas.